True Milk Paint is an ancient type of paint made with natural ingredients including limestone and casein, a milk protein.

Unlike premixed paints, true Milk Paint comes as a powder that you mix with water.

It is known for its depth, dimension, variation, durability on porous surfaces, and ability to create authentic aged and naturally chippy finishes.

One of the biggest differences is the formulation.

Milk Paint comes as a powder and is mixed with water. Its consistency can be adjusted depending on the effect you want, and it can naturally chip, flake, or crackle over certain existing finishes.

Chalk Mineral Paint comes premixed and provides a more predictable matte painted finish. If you want it distressed or crackled, those effects generally need to be intentionally created.

Both can be distressed, glazed, waxed, and creatively finished. Neither is inherently "better"—they simply create different looks.

Milk Paint is supplied as a powder and mixed with water.

Because you control the consistency, it can be mixed thinner for effects similar to a stain or thicker when you want more texture and age.

Since true Milk Paint contains no preservatives, it's best to mix only what you expect to use that day.

Approximate coverage is:

• 2 oz. sample — 12 sq. ft.
  
• 6 oz. pint — 36 sq. ft.
  
• 12 oz. quart — 72 sq. ft.
  
• 48 oz. gallon — 288 sq. ft.
  

Milk Paint coverage can vary considerably depending on the surface, how light or dark the starting surface is compared with your paint color, how thick or thin you mix it, your brush, technique, and number of coats.

Whites commonly require 2–4 coats, while colors often require approximately 2 coats and may occasionally provide the desired result in one.

Milk Paint loves a porous surface. Sweet Pickins recommends Extra Bond when painting anything other than bare wood to improve adhesion on nonporous or previously finished surfaces.

It's also an important option when you want a cleaner painted finish rather than Milk Paint's characteristic chipping.

For previously finished pieces where you don't want chipping, Extra Bond should be added to the first coat of Milk Paint.

That's one of the things Milk Paint is famous for!

Over some existing finishes, Milk Paint may naturally chip, flake, or crackle.

If you're painting over something very porous—such as bare wood or Chalk Mineral Paint—the Milk Paint may simply absorb into the surface instead of chipping. To encourage controlled chipping, a resist such as beeswax or petroleum jelly can be applied selectively before your Milk Paint layer.

Once the piece is sanded, those resisted areas can lift away to reveal an irregular, authentically aged look.

Proper preparation and Extra Bond are your friends.

Sweet Pickins recommends Extra Bond when painting over surfaces other than bare wood. Adding it to your first coat greatly improves adhesion and helps create a cleaner, more predictable painted finish.

Any existing peeling or failing finish should be corrected before painting.

Absolutely!

For experimenting, start with small quantities of dry powder—teaspoons or tablespoons work well. Mix the powders together, add water, and test the color on scrap wood or cardboard.

Keep in mind that the color will look lighter once dry.

Write down your ratios! That makes it much easier to recreate a custom color you love.

Freshly mixed paint provides the best results, so ideally mix only what you expect to use that day.

If you do have leftovers, they can be kept in an airtight container in the refrigerator for a few days or more. The supplied instructions recommend adding a small amount of water over the paint without stirring before refrigerating it. Stir thoroughly when you're ready to use it again and adjust with additional water if necessary.

Because true Milk Paint contains no preservatives, its mixed shelf life isn't the same as premixed paint.

It depends on the project.

Decorative pieces and walls don't necessarily need to be sealed. However, unsealed Milk Paint can water spot, so surfaces exposed to spills, water, washing, or regular use should receive an appropriate finish.

Furniture such as benches and chairs can be waxed or oiled. Top Coat Final Finish is another option for many furniture and woodwork applications.

Kitchen cabinetry requires a tougher protective finish suitable for exposure to food oils.

Yes.

Cabinets should be thoroughly degreased and rinsed. Slick or shiny surfaces may benefit from a light sanding to create better tooth for adhesion.

Any existing peeling or failing finish should be removed first.

If the cabinets have been previously finished or you don't want a chippy effect, add Extra Bond to the first coat.

After painting, use a durable protective finish appropriate for cabinetry and exposure to food oils.

Yes, particularly over porous surfaces such as bare wood, brick, or cement.

Milk Paint used outdoors over a nonporous surface and exposed to moisture may eventually chip or flake.

For additional water resistance, Sweet Pickins Tung Oil or an appropriate outdoor finish can be used depending on the project.

Yes.

Mix the Milk Paint according to its directions and allow it to sit for approximately 10 minutes. An immersion blender can help achieve a very smooth consistency.

Approximately 10% additional water can be added as a starting point, although individual spray guns may require further adjustment. Straining the paint through a fine mesh strainer may also be helpful.

Always test your spray consistency before beginning the project.

Sweet Pickins Milk Paint is environmentally safe, non-toxic, and considered suitable for children's furniture and toys.